EntryThe arrival card is free. The visa is not.
Flying in, you file Cambodia’s e-Arrival card at arrival.gov.kh in the seven days before you land, and it costs nothing. Most visitors also need a 30-day tourist visa: an e-visa applied for at least four days ahead, or a visa on arrival paid in US dollars, with a photo. ASEAN passports are the main exception. Overstaying brings a fine with no upper limit.
Hot takeAngkor Wat faces west. Sunrise is mostly a silhouette.
Unlike most Khmer temples, Angkor Wat faces west, so at dawn you photograph its outline against the sky, alongside a crowd doing the same. The carvings catch the light in the afternoon. The exception comes at the spring and autumn equinoxes, when, seen from the western causeway, the sun rises straight over the central tower. And a pass for tomorrow, bought after 4:45 p.m., gets you in for tonight’s sunset.
Set-jettingLara Croft made Ta Prohm famous. The trees got there first.
Lara Croft: Tomb Raider filmed at Ta Prohm in 2000, the first major film shot in Cambodia since Lord Jim in 1964, and it has been ‘the Tomb Raider temple’ ever since. The real stars are the giant trees whose roots have prised its galleries apart. Come early, before the tour groups, and the famous doorway is yours for a minute.
MoneyDollars from the ATM, riel in the change.
Cambodia runs on two currencies. ATMs pay out US dollars and most prices in the cities are in dollars, while change under a dollar comes back in riel, at roughly 4,000 to the dollar. Check the notes you are handed: fake and damaged bills turn up. Many counters show a KHQR code; the central bank’s Bakong Tourists app pays it, and signs visitors up with an email and a passport.
FoodKampot pepper has a protected name, like a Melton Mowbray pork pie.
It grows in the foothills near the coast and comes green, black, red or white off the same vine. In the early 1900s it went to France by the ton as poivre d’Indochine; since 2016 the EU has protected the name, so only pepper from Kampot may use it. Buy it at a farm, and taste the red before you choose.