Getting aroundSeoul to Busan is two and a half hours on the KTX, and the seats sell out on Fridays.
The KTX high-speed line runs from Seoul Station to Busan, Daegu, Gyeongju and Gwangju. Book on the Korail app or site; Friday evening and Sunday trains fill days ahead, and holiday weeks weeks ahead. Jeju is a flight, and the Seoul–Jeju route is one of the busiest in the world, so fares are low and frequent.
MoneyCards work almost everywhere; cash is for markets and the odd small place.
Korea is close to cashless, and foreign cards are accepted in shops, restaurants and taxis. The exceptions are street-food stalls and some traditional markets. ATMs marked Global accept foreign cards. Tipping is not done.
When to comeSpring and autumn are short and perfect; summer is a monsoon.
Cherry blossom comes to Seoul in early April, autumn colour peaks in late October to early November, and both are the busiest weeks for hotels. Late June to July is the rainy season and August is hot and humid. Chuseok, the autumn harvest holiday, shuts a lot of the country for three days and fills every train.
Small thingsShoes off, and the elders first.
Shoes come off in homes, in many guesthouses and in some restaurants with floor seating. The oldest person at the table starts eating first, and both hands are used to give or receive anything. Convenience stores are open all night and sell better food than the name suggests.