Unwritten rulesKhinkali are eaten by hand, and the knot stays on the plate.
Hold the dumpling by its twisted top, bite a small hole, drink the broth, then eat the rest. A fork would pierce it and send the juice across the table, which is why using one is considered bad form, even childish. The knot is too tough to eat, so leave it on the plate, where it keeps count. They began as shepherds’ food in the mountains of Pshavi and Khevsureti.
Only hereGeorgia measures inflation in cheese bread.
Economists at ISET, the International School of Economics at Tbilisi State University, publish a Khachapuri Index inspired by The Economist’s Big Mac Index: the cost of the flour, cheese, yeast, milk, eggs, butter, gas and electricity for one Imeretian khachapuri. In February 2026 it came to 8.05 lari, up 14.3% in a year. For eating rather than economics, order the boat-shaped Adjarian one, with butter and an egg yolk in the middle.
Hot takeOrange wine is a trend elsewhere. In Georgia it is 8,000 years old.
Jars from Neolithic villages in Georgia hold some of the earliest chemical evidence of grape wine ever found, from around 6000 BC. The qvevri method, on UNESCO’s list since 2013, ferments the juice with its skins, stalks and pips for five or six months, in clay jars buried in the ground. White grapes made that way come out amber, which is what natural-wine bars sell as orange wine.
Table mannersDinner has a toastmaster, and a Georgian song is in interstellar space.
A supra, the Georgian feast, is led by a tamada, who proposes each toast and speaks at length on it while the table raises its glasses and waits its turn. Georgian polyphonic singing was recognised by UNESCO in 2001, and one song, Chakrulo from Kakheti, flies on the Voyager probes’ Golden Record, launched in 1977. Voyager 1 reaches a light-day from Earth in November 2026.
DrivingTusheti’s road is open about four months a year.
The road into Tusheti crosses the Abano Pass at 2,826 metres, one of the highest drivable passes in the Caucasus, on a surface that only 4x4s can manage. Snow closes it from around mid-October to mid-June, depending on the winter. Drive it early in the day, in a 4x4 with a driver who knows it, and do not count on a signal once the climb begins.