RulesLeave the satellite messenger at home. India means it.
Bringing a satellite phone into India without a licence is illegal, even if you are only changing planes, and the ban can cover satellite messengers and handheld GPS units too. They can be confiscated and their owners fined or arrested; British travellers have been detained over exactly this. An ordinary phone is fine, eSIM included. Trekking the high Himalaya? Leave your route with the guesthouse instead.
Hot takeNorth Goa is the party, the south is the holiday, and each has an airport.
Anjuna, on the northern coast, gave the world Goa trance and still holds a flea market on Wednesdays. Further south, Palolem and Agonda, a nesting beach for olive ridley turtles, are for doing very little. Since January 2023 the north has had its own airport at Mopa, about 60 km from Dabolim in the south, so check which one your flight uses before booking the taxi.
MythThere is no Black Taj. There is a better view of the white one.
The legend of a black marble twin across the Yamuna goes back to the French traveller Tavernier, who visited Agra in 1665. Digs at Mehtab Bagh, the Moonlight Garden opposite, found a Mughal garden and a large octagonal pool instead: the only black Taj may have been a reflection. The garden is open every day, which matters, because the Taj Mahal closes on Fridays.
Food fightTwo states took one sweet to the registry. Both won.
West Bengal won a geographical indication for its rosogolla in 2017. Odisha, which ties the sweet to centuries of offerings at the temple in Puri, answered with one for its rasagola in 2019, after four years of argument. The registry’s view: both can stand, as two variants of one sweet. Try each, in Kolkata and in Bhubaneswar, and keep your verdict to yourself.
Only hereOne clock for almost 3,000 kilometres, set half an hour off.
All of India keeps Indian Standard Time, UTC+5:30, so the sun rises almost two hours earlier on the eastern border than in the far west. Assam’s tea gardens run on their own ‘tea garden time’, an hour ahead. Nepal, next door, keeps UTC+5:45, 15 minutes ahead of India. Your phone will adjust by itself; your body clock is on its own.