The memeSplit the G is a sport now. The two-part pour is theatre.
The game: stop your first gulp where the line between stout and head crosses the middle of the G on the glass. It has been on Urban Dictionary since 2018 and on phone screens ever since. The pour you wait for — 119.5 seconds between the two parts, says Guinness — is ‘a cod’, Irish slang for nonsense, according to an Irish Times columnist: it changes nothing about the taste. Wait anyway. It is the show.
Hot takeThe Cliffs of Moher are the famous ones, not the tall ones.
Moher tops out at 214 metres and drew about 1.1 million visitors in 2022. Sliabh Liag in Donegal climbs to 601 metres straight out of the Atlantic, and Croaghaun on Achill has the highest sea cliffs in Ireland, third-highest in Europe, visible only on foot or from a boat. See Moher, by all means. Then keep driving north.
Myth‘Craic’ is not an ancient Irish word. It is English, respelled.
The word for fun, news and good conversation began as the English and Scots ‘crack’, from the Middle English crak, loud talk. Irish borrowed it as craic in the mid-20th century, and English took it back, Irish spelling and all, in the 1970s. Knowing this will not make you friends at the bar. Asking ‘what’s the craic?’ will.
Food fightThe island has two Taytos, and neither one is the other.
Joe ‘Spud’ Murphy founded Tayto in Dublin in 1954 and is credited with the world’s first flavoured crisp: cheese and onion. Two years later a company in Tandragee, County Armagh, licensed the name and the recipes, and Tayto Northern Ireland has been a separate firm ever since, making its crisps beside a castle. Taste both before you pick a favourite.
DrivingDublin’s M50 toll has no booths. Pay by 8 p.m. the next day.
Between junctions 6 and 7, cameras photograph every number plate, and drivers without a tag or an account must pay online, by phone or at a Payzone shop before 8 p.m. the following day; after that, penalties are added. With a hire car, ask at the desk how the toll is handled. Everywhere else the one rule to remember is simpler: keep left.