When to comeTyphoon season is real, and the boats stop first.
Around 20 tropical storms and typhoons enter Philippine waters in a typical year, most of them between June and November, and ferries and island-hopping boats are usually the first services cancelled when one passes. Leave a spare day between the last island and an international flight. Skip any boat that looks overcrowded, and wear the life jacket.
Getting aroundGrab works in Manila and Cebu. Palawan and Siargao run on tricycles.
Grab’s own coverage list stops at the big cities: Metro Manila, Cebu, Davao, Iloilo and a few more. On Palawan, Siargao and Bohol it is tricycles, vans and boats, mostly paid in cash, so draw pesos before you leave the city. Book vans and boats through your hotel, and keep its address saved offline.
The memeChristmas starts in September. Blame Jose Mari Chan.
The Philippines is often said to have the world’s longest Christmas season, running through the ‘ber months’, and it opens with the same song: Jose Mari Chan’s ‘Christmas in Our Hearts’ from 1990, the best-selling Filipino Christmas song, back on every speaker in September. The memes of him arrive on schedule too; his own favourite has NASA recording the sound of the sun, and it is his song.
Set-jettingApocalypse Now left the Philippines a surf town.
Francis Ford Coppola shot Apocalypse Now here from 1976, on a five-month schedule that stretched past a year after a typhoon wrecked the sets. The helicopter-and-surf scene was filmed at Baler, on Luzon’s Pacific coast, and the film is credited with starting the country’s surf scene. In 2023 a law made Baler the official ‘Birthplace of Philippine Surfing’.
Food fightThe spaghetti is sweet, and the ketchup is made of bananas.
Filipino spaghetti comes in a sweet red sauce with sliced hot dogs and cheese, often made with banana ketchup: a wartime answer to a shortage of tomatoes, credited to the food technologist María Orosa and dyed red to look the part. Jollibee serves it beside its fried chicken, and says its share of the local fast-food market beats every multinational chain’s combined.