The memePura vida means hello, goodbye and thank you. Blame a Mexican film.
The catchphrase is usually traced to a 1956 Mexican comedy of the same name, whose luckless hero, played by the comedian Clavillazo, says it at every turn. Costa Ricans made it their own, and dictionaries have listed it since the mid-1990s as a greeting, a farewell, a thank-you and a verdict on almost anything. The nickname tico comes from the local diminutive: momentico, chiquitico.
Food fightThe gallo pinto war is fought in kilos.
Costa Rica and Nicaragua both claim rice and beans as a national dish. In 2003 Costa Rica cooked a 440-kilo gallo pinto that earned a Guinness mention; two weeks later Nicaragua served 545 kilos for its Independence Day. In 2005 Costa Rica answered with about 2,200 kilos, made, pointedly, with red beans, the Nicaraguan way. Here it comes with Lizano sauce and no concessions.
Set-jettingJurassic Park is set off Costa Rica. Spielberg preferred Hawaii and room service.
Isla Nublar is fictional, and even the film’s San José is Kauai. Costa Rica was considered and dropped because the shoot would have fallen in the rainy season, and Spielberg admitted that at 26 rather than 45 he might have picked somewhere rugged over a Hawaiian hotel with room service. The real offshore island, Cocos, is 550 km out, 36 to 48 hours by boat, and ruled by hammerheads.
DrivingOne-lane bridges, plate-day rules and the flat-tyre trick.
Many bridges narrow to a single lane, so slow down and check for oncoming traffic before you commit. San José limits private cars on weekdays by the last digit of the number plate, hire cars included; the rental desk will tell you your day. And if a tyre goes flat after a stop, drive on to a petrol station: the UK Foreign Office warns of thieves who slash one, then offer to help.
When to comeWhen the Pacific is at its wettest, go to the Caribbean.
The Pacific side is dry from December to March, and September and October are its wettest months. On the Caribbean coast those same two months are one of the year’s two relatively dry spells, says Costa Rica’s national weather service. So in September and October, swap Manuel Antonio for Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, and keep valuables close there: the UK Foreign Office singles out that coast for theft.